The 3D Structure of Spilling Breakers

Nearly all calculations and measurements of breaking waves assume the wave profiles and flow fields are two-dimensional. Though this assumption may be correct before the waves become turbulent, once transition to turbulent flow begins, the real flow becomes highly three dimensional. The threedimensional structure and motion of the free surface is important for the dynamics of the breaking process, the mixing of the surface water and the response of remote sensors. In the present research program, we are measuring the three-dimensional surface and subsurface flow structure of spilling breakers and are collaborating with investigators from other institutions who are performing infrared and radar measurements during our experiments and providing calculations of radar response using our wave profile data as input.